Le Mont Saint Michel

Yesterday I was finally able to take a day and do a trip on the train to go see Le Mont Saint Michel. It's an iconic site in France, and only took about 4.5 hours by train/bus to get there from where I am in Quimper. I got up around 7:00 AM and headed to the train station to get my ticket. It took about a two and a half hour train ride to Rennes and then another hour and a half from Rennes to Le Mont Saint Michel by bus. I was really surprised with two things; that there was a direct service from Rennes, and with how many asians were on the bus ride! Asians really are the ultimate tourist! But I was totally ok with this, because they love taking pictures. Many times I traded picture services with them for my own picture. One asian woman I actually because friends with. But I'll write more about that at the end of this post. 

I'm so happy that I decided to double layer and wore yoga pants under my jeans. I had a sweatshirt on under my jacket as well. The location of Mont Saint Michel made it pretty drafty and cold the entire time. Even when inside the church and abbey there was always a draft. My hat and scarf paid off too! Even though it would have made pictures difficult, I'm sure I could have used some gloves. Oh well, that's what I get for going so late in the season!

A little history lesson about the Mont Saint Michel. It's named after the archangel Michael, or pre-/post-mortal Adam. Michael is represented by a bronze statue at the top of the spire that you can see in some of the pictures. Since he was to be said to be the head of the heavenly militia, he is shown holding a set of scales and a sword. For the medieval people, he was important during their dreaded lives because he was believed to be the one who led their souls after death to the balance for judgement, hence why he holds the scale. Worship of Saint Michael became popular in the 5th century. Mont Saint Michel is said to date back to around 708 A.D. But the popularity of Saint Michael and his role as protector took a whole new meaning during France's battle in The Hundred Years War with England. Le Mont Saint Michel remained impenetrable during this war. Worship also expanded during the Counter-Reformation, where, in the eyes of the church, Saint Michael was the only warlike angel who could fight against the Protestant heresy. 

Back to the abbey--it was originally a sanctuary build in the 8th century. Popularity of it grew as pilgrimages came to the site to honor the archangel. And in the 10th century the Benedictines settled the abbey and the village around it began to grow as far as the rock would let them. 

During the Revolution and until 1863 the abbey was actually used as a prison. Which is surprising, but explains why any artwork or embellishments to the abbey have been removed for preservation. I learned that some of these items were nearby in Avranches, a city not too far away from the mont. A decade after the prison was dissolved, The Mont became classified as a historical monument and work has been ongoing to restore the site. Evidence of this was seen just about everywhere. Construction scaffolding can be easily spotted from just about anywhere. 

After I had visited the Mont, I was talking with a woman, while waiting for my train back to Quimper. She informed me that there was a lot of political interest in the way the Mont Saint Michel was accessible for touring. Apparently, it was a big issue in France. I can understand why they would want it to be accessible for all, but she told me stories of some people during summer hours taking 2 hours just to go from the gate to the road up to the mont, to the site itself! This platform scaffolding is what I think will be a train transit system that is being worked on. 

The narrow street lined with hotels, gift shops, and eatery's leading up to the abbey. 

I deviated from the main route (on accident really, I was just trying to find a quiet place to munch on my sandwich) and found this cemetery. Although I'm sure there are people from earlier centuries buried on the Mont, the people buried here were from the 19th and 20th centuries. 

Outlook above the cemetery. 

At the entrance to the abbey museum. 

The view above the entrance to the abbey museum.

The south wall of the abbey. 

The watering hole for the abbots. I'm sure they had some deep conversations around this spot. ;)

At the outlook from the terrace. The door behind me leads to the church. You can see Saint Michael on the spire if you look close. This terrace was actually destroyed by a fire and was restored around 1780. 

View to the north. Normandy beaches are not far, as well as the Iles Chausey which is where the granite for Mont Saint Michel came from. The sea comes up more in a higher tide, and while I was researching my trip to the Mont, there were various warnings of those who wished to walk through the silt up to the Mont because many tourists have downed, apparently, not knowing how quick the tide would rise! It's also said that during one of the wars, quick sand was put around the Mont to deter those who were trying to penetrate the stronghold. 

The northern view along with the terrace and church.

Western view expanding over Brittany. 

View to the west. 

Inside the church

The nave and altar.

The cloister. Where I'm sure many abbots did much prayer, meditation, and pacing happened. 

Me and the cloister in the background.

The view from the cloister to the west.  

Me in the cloister with the church in the background. 

I wasn't able to get a picture of it, but next to the cloister there was a large room, called the reflectory, about the same size as the one pictured below, without the pillars in the center, where the abbots ate their meals. It is located above this room below. Since there isn't a lot of space on a hill, everything is stacked underneath what was previously shown. There are about 3 stories in the abbey. 

This is the guests hall. Visitors and knights would eat here. 

On the far wall, you can see two HUGE fireplaces which were for cooking food for visitors and the abbots. 

The walkway between the visitors hall and the crypt below the abbey. The crypt was basically the same format as the church, with the nave, and alcove, but with huge pillars for support of the large structure above it. 

This is my personal tour guide in English. Listened to it like a telephone. 

Don't mind this crazy picture. It's more for my mother because I'm always pulling funny faces in all the pictures she loves to take. 

The Knights hall. With more huge fireplaces. 

Last leg of the journey out is the loooooong spiral staircase. I felt like I was in Hogwarts or something. 

The three windows above me in a row are from the cloister. The next one below is the Knight's Hall. 

Mini turret outside to the west. I would hate to be out there during the siege. 

North side. Top row of windows is the reflector, Second row is the visitor's hall. Underneath that is the Almontory, the room where the tour began

East turret 

From the East side. 

East wall

Outside from the south, on my way to return to the bus. 

So I made a really good friend after I finished touring Mont Saint Michel. The picture below is Ikema, a sweetheart friend of mine from Japan. She and I were always near each other on our personal tour and we took a few pictures of each other. While we were waiting for the bus back to Rennes, she came and handed me a small instant head pack for my freezing hands. It was the sweetest thing somebody has done for me in a while. Such a simple act of service. I was so grateful for that! Even though she spoke a limited amount of English, we talked and I learned she was on a 3-day vacation from Japan. The day before she was touring Paris by herself and she walked everywhere. What a trooper! We sat next to each other on the bus and both fell asleep. It was that kind of sleep where you body is just exhausted from keeping you warm. Ikema took her scarf and covered the two us up and tucked me in.   I wish I had more time to tour with her! We said goodbye at Rennes train station with a bow, which by her culture is correct. I bowed and then gave her a hug. Such a sweet woman. I'll always remember her random act of kindness. Later I paid the service forward to someone else I was talking with at the train station whose hands were cold. Hopefully I had the same effect for her as Ikema did for me. 

I didn't get home until 10:00 PM, but I'm so glad I went! By the time I was home, I was starving and ready for bed! It was an adventure to go by myself, and I'm proud I did. Thanks for the inspiration and push to go, Mom and Alex!